Local Culture
Exotic Urban Escape: South Asian Culinary Vision
Spice Market New York
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There is something about balmy summer days that make us crave alfresco dining. Though New York City offers a great selection of restaurants that feature outdoor seating, nothing quite compares to Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s South Asian-inspired Spice Market. Located in NYC’s Meatpacking District, the venue takes the senses to an exotic escape. Due to the interior design work of Jacques Garcia, patrons are surrounded by antique artifacts imported from South India and Malaysia, which fit in comfortably with the restaurant’s color palette of soothing violets, indigos and deep red. Even the wait staff’s uniforms seem to have been ripped from the streets of Burma.
But despite its swanky and sophisticated décor, Spice Market is all about street food. Renowned Chef Jean-Georges used his travels to South Asia for the restaurant’s culinary inspiration. Just in time for the upcoming season, the staff welcomed my guest and me to taste their recommended dishes and cocktails for the summer.
Our cordial attendant, Guillermo, explained that the dishes are served in short intervals, in consistent harmony with the restaurant’s South Asian theme. He recommended we try Kumquat Mojito (Cruzan Light, rum, mumquat and mint) and Yuzu Lemon Drop (Skyy Vodka, Cointreau, yuzu and lemongrass). Both were mixed very well and a delight to my taste buds. I suggest waiting a minute of two before drinking the mojito; let the kumquat absorb the liquid (the mixture of colors is also entertaining to the eyes). Executive Chef Anthony Ricco presented some dishes from their tasting menu beginning with shaved tuna with chili, tapioca, Asian pear and lime, an explosion of unexpected flavors. The spiciness of the chili was touched with the sweetness of the tapioca. The dish is served cold and the tuna is cut into small pieces, very much like how it would be in sushi. It is recommended to use the spoon to get the full effect of the ingredients.
The following dish was the teases-with-your-senses spiced chicken samosa with cilantro yogurt; the meat is a bit on the spicy side, but the cilantro yogurt quickly cools it off. Guillermo recommended that we have Chenin Blanc ‘08, a crisp semi-dry white wine with hints of pineapple and papaya from Sula Winery in India, with the steamed red snapper with shiitake mushrooms, ginger, scallion and tarragon. The chef also suggests pairing it with sticky coconut rice, which was absolutely divine. You’d want to wait a bit before breaking into it, so that the fish and mushroom collects all the flavors. Another great summer dinner selection is the chargrilled chicken with kumquats, lemongrass and dressing. Don‘t be fooled by the burnt outer layer because the chicken is tender and the juice from the added ingredients makes it refreshing and light. Along with the chicken was Spice Market’s signature dish (and one of my favorites), ginger rice, which is visually similar to fried rice, but softer. The chef recommends breaking the egg yolk to distribute the flavors.
My absolute favorite item of the night was the black pepper shrimp with sun dried pineapple. Growing up in Southeast Asia, this dish took me back home. There is something about sun dried fruits and spicy dipping sauce that makes perfection. I have had similar dishes (like green mango with shrimp paste), but this is revolutionary. I loved the spiciness of the peppered shrimp and the sweetness of the sun dried pineapple.
Chef Ricco kept the dishes coming. Served next was avocado and radish with Chinese mustard and tempura onions. The radish was balanced nicely by the creamy texture of the avocado and the crunchy tempura. My guest suggested that we taste the lobster summer roll with citrus-dill gelee and sriracha emulsion—and it certainly stood up to its name. The sriracha adds a little spiciness, but the citrus counters that with soothing coolness. It is also served cold which is just perfect for the summer.
To end our wonderful dinner, we were served the ever-popular Thai Jewels (the fruits used in this dessert are very colorful, nostalgic of gem stones found in South Asia) served with crushed coconut ice. This dessert is a staple of Asian cuisine—whether you’re in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia or the Philippines, you will find the streets filled with vendors selling this dessert. It’s a definite summer dessert and a great way to end a great meal.
Spice Market is located on 403 W. 13th St. To read more about the restaurant, check out their website, www.spicemarketnewyork.com, or call 212-675-2322.