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Restaurant Review: Wall and Water
“Yes, this sure is where the power lunches happen”
Photo: zagat.com
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In the center of the Financial District is a contemporary American restaurant that takes pride in their locally grown menu items. Hidden in its mega façade (it’s located in the Andaz Wall Street Hotel) and sleek modern décor, Wall & Water is surprisingly comfortable.
From the outside, it emulates the rich and powerful. Upon entering the building, I realized this was a correct assumption. My eyes immediately fixed on the grand marble staircase and the impressive lounge area. As I walked further, a magnificent bar counter top entered my view. The lounge and the bar fill up the entire lobby. The restaurant itself is located upstairs, with an open kitchen. Yes, this sure is where the power lunches happen.
Charcuterie & Cheeses
Salted duck prosciutto with Tarentaise cheese (from Spring Brook Farm), pickled carrot, wheat crackers and homemade apricot chutney
It was presented beautifully. Individually, everything was good, not great. But after piling the cracker with cheese, prosciutto and apricot chutney, something magical happened. The saltiness of the prosciutto brings out the sweetness of the chutney, and the Tarentaise cheese adds a creamy agent that makes it mouth-watering.
Soups & Salads
Roasted stone fruits (aged goat cheese, lemon preserves, remsburger maple syrup and pine nuts)
Everything, from the texture to the flavor, is great. The remsburger maple syrup brings out the flavor of the goat cheese. It’s a delight.
Edible seasonal flowers (herbs and sprouts salad, aged Parmesan with aged balsamic vinegar)
I have always been intrigued by edible flowers, so I had to try it. The dish can be deceitful, though; it looks light, but the pansies were actually hearty to my surprise. The aged Parmesan and balsamic vinegar makes it special.
Starters
Catsmo smoked trout with chopped beets, shaved fennel, dill, lime and crème fraiche
One of my favorites. The smoked trout is great, and the chopped beets are even better (and I hate beets!).
Poultry & Game
Roasted young chicken with stinging nettles, peas, fava beans, ramps and morels stew
The aroma alone is perfection. The chicken has just the right tenderness and moisture. The stew is what really makes the chicken great and savory. Since this dish doesn’t come with a side, I chose to have grits Parmesan from the sides menu. Grits are just cream of wheat, but I never would’ve guessed it as I watched our waitress, Gaby, gently place the steaming pan in front of me. The crunchy Parmesan swept me off my feet.
Meat
Grilled prime New York steak with crushed new potatoes and roasted tomatoes
Perhaps we should have listened to Gaby and got the pork belly confit, but because my guest and I are both big fans of steak, we had to try it. It was done medium rare, and tasted mighty delicious. It certainly filled my appetite, though I thought the tomatoes were a touch too much; the steak was fine by itself. The potatoes were creamy and went well with the rest of the meal.
Dessert
Blueberry crumble
It’s a heavy dessert that’s perfect for the fall. It’s moist, warm, creamy, sweet and tangy.
Kumquat double cream
An offspring of sorbet and ice cream, it’s a great summer treat. It’s sweet, yet citrusy.