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A Tour of Bob Dylan’s New York
Part one of our “What Happened Here” series
Photo: Nadia Chaudhury
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This is the first installment of Encore‘s “What Happened Here” series, where we showcase landmarks in New York City that might not have a plaque signaling its significance but are still an important of the city’s history. Today, in honor of Sean Wilentz’s new book, Bob Dylan in America, we look at some of the places Dylan played, visited and got his garbage stolen.
(Photos by Nadia Chaudhury, unless otherwise noted)
White Horse Tavern (567 Hudson St.)
While Dylan Thomas is the man most associated with White Horse, the other Dylan also came here. But instead of drinking himself to death, the singer Dylan regularly checked out the Clancy Brothers, shortly after arriving in New York in 1961.
Chelsea Hotel (222 W. 23rd St.)
Even if the line from “Sara” (“Staying up for days in the Chelsea Hotel, writing ‘Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands’ for you”) isn’t totally accurate, as Lester Bangs once famously wrote about, Dylan did stay here. (Photo by Uncle Buddha)
Robert Shelton’s Apartment (191 Waverly Pl.)
If not for Robert Shelton, the world may have never heard of Bob Dylan. On September 29, 1961, Shelton, then a critic for the New York Times, wrote, “A bright new face in folk music is appearing at Gerde’s Folk City [11 W. 4th St.]. Although only 20 years old, Bob Dylan is one of the most distinctive stylists to play in a Manhattan cabaret in months.” A star was born.
Dave Van Ronk’s Apartment (190 Waverly Pl.)
Across the street from Shelton’s building is the former-residence of Dave Van Ronk, nicknamed the “Mayor of MacDougal Street” and one of the few still-listenable 1960s’ folksingers. Dylan would frequently visit and listen to Van Ronk’s records. The “Mayor” lived in New York until his death in 2002.
Bob Dylan’s First NYC Apartment (161 W. 4th St.)
In December 1961, Dylan moved into this apartment, just west of Sixth Avenue. Then it was right above Bruno’s Spaghetti Shop; now it’s attached to Tic Tac Toe, a sex store. A cliche, I know, but: the times they are a-changin’.
Jones Street (between Bleecker and 4th Street)
It was on this side street that Don Hunstein shot the album cover for The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan. The day we went, it wasn’t snowing, so you’ll have to use your imagination. The cars have also changed slightly.
Fourth Street
You got a lot of nerve/To say you are my friend…
The Bitter End (147 Bleecker St.)
Dylan didn’t play The Bitter End when he first came to New York, and wouldn’t until the mid-’70s, when he came back to the city. Dylan played with Patti Smith, Ramblin’ Jack Elliot and many other local musicians, and it was here that the idea for the Rolling Thunder Revue was born. Also of note for Dylan nerds only: the only known performance for one of Dylan’s greatest (and my second favorite) songs, “Abandoned Love,” happened here in July 1975.
Bob Dylan’s Second NYC Apartment (94 MacDougal St.)
As previously mentioned, Dylan moved back to NYC in the ’70s, but unlike his first trek in the ’60s, it went terribly. While he could previously walk around the city without getting noticed, now he was one of the world’s biggest stars and everyone knew what he looked like. And threw away, in the case of A.J. Weberman. The self-proclaimed Dylanologist would literally rummage through Dylan’s garbage, looking for clues to…well, I’m not sure. He was insane—and still is, if his 2005 book, Dylan to English Dictionary, proves accurate. Supposedly, and rightfully so, Dylan kicked Weberman’s ass outside this apartment, too.
The Fat Black Pussycat (105 MacDougal St.)
Don’t let the Panchitos’ banners distract you, this was once the spot of a very important folk club: the Pussycat, also known as the Commons. Supposedly, “Blowin’ in the Wind” was written here, where you can now get one of “six best margaritas in Manhattan,” according to New York magazine.
Gaslight Cafe (116 MacDougal St.)
Located in the basement of this building, the Gaslight was another folk club that Dylan frequented (along with Allen Ginsberg, Tom Paxton, Phil Ochs, Charles Mingus and many more). In 2005, Dylan’s Live at the Gaslight 1962 was released (in Starbucks, ironically, or depressingly), with early renditions of “A Hard Rain’s A-Gonna Fall” and “Don’t Think Twice, It’s Alright.” Also in the building was the Kettle of Fish, a bar where Dylan would grab a drink with other folksingers on the scene. Izzy Young’s Folklore Center (110 MacDougal St.) was also nearby.
Cafe Wha? (115 MacDougal St.)
Even if Dylan had never played here, in his ever live performance (a walk-on, actually), Cafe Wha? would still be a historic venue. Bruce Springsteen, Jimi Hendrix, the Velvet Underground, Kool and the Gang, Woody Allen and Richard Pryor are just some of the famous performers who have graced the Wha? No NYC trip would be complete without stopping in for a minute. It was one of the first things I did when I moved into the city.
One more to check out that I didn’t get a photo of: A&R Recording Studio (799 7th Ave.), where Dylan recorded some of Blood on the Tracks, including “Lily, Rosemary and the Jack of Hearts,” in September 1974.