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Finding Fela! in the Fabric
Costume and set designer Marina Draghici
Kevin Mambo as Fela Kuti and the Queens of Fela! (Photo: Monique Carboni)
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Costume and set designer Marina Draghici has worked behind the scenes at the Public Theater, New York City Opera, Paris National Opera, New York Shakespeare Festival, in TV and in film, including the 2009 drama, Precious, but she moves into the spotlight for her eye-catching Fela! creations. The Romanian-born costumer joined the fledgling project during its second workshop, at the request of long-time collaborator, choreographer Bill T. Jones. “Nobody knew what Fela! was going to become,” said Draghici.
Fela! tells the tale of Nigerian revolutionary and Afrobeat musician, Fela Anikulapo-Kuti (1938-1997), condensing the life of the sexually charged, self-proclaimed “Black President” into three acts. “Fela had clothes in every color on Earth made in Lagos, every shade of purple, pink, yellow,” said Draghici, inspiring her to create a unique color-scheme for each act. “It was a given that we would use white at the end, for the symbolism,” then Draghici chose patterned turquoise blue and salmon pink for Acts I and II, highlighting Sahr Ngaujah and Kevin Mambo, who alternate in the demanding title role, on the stage.
Draghici had limited experience designing for dance, so she surrounded herself with people who did, borrowing inspiration from Jones. “Painting at night on walls, I’ll watch Bill’s choreography and add a costume or change a detail, rework the functionality of a costume or its movement. I take into account the dancers’ body type, energy, temperament and emphasize everyone’s best feature,” she said, perpetually tweaking costumes based on dancer feedback. Designing danceable, washable and durable costumes can be difficult. Costumes originally made in heavy, stretch twill had to be dry cleaned, which “messes up the costumes; after one month they come back two shades less.” Now made from thin, modern polyester, “the costumes are comfortable, wash well, and dry fast,” convenient for the wardrobe department who washes each by hand after every performance. Fitting presidential treatment for the first Black President, Fela!
Fela! on Broadway, Eugene O’Neill Theater 230 West 49th Street; 212-239-6200 www.felaonbroadway.com.