Feature

Eating Close to Home

Bone-chilling temperatures encourage eating (and heating up) in nearby locales

by Lisa LeeKing   |   Feb 1, 2010

Eating Close to Home

 


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I don’t consider myself lazy; it’s just that I prefer to stay near subway lines when there’s snow on the ground. While focusing on restaurants between Ft. Greene/Clinton Hill and the West Village I have discovered a new, intimate date-perfect restaurant, and a gourmet grocery store to pick up items when I feel like cooking my own dinner.

An intimate cellar that’s outfitted with an 1890’s bar in the front and a classy restaurant just past the open kitchen galley called Bar Henry (90 W. Houston St. 646-448-4559, www.barhenry.com) was my first stop. Not indicative of the neon sign outside, Bar Henry is a hidden gem that serves skillfully prepared bistro fare. Details like the red velvet chairs, exposed brick wall, and copper-ceiling that evoke the magic of a former New York, and one I wish I was old enough to have known. It’s executive chef Cosme Aguilar’s interpretation and execution of his take on bistro fare that makes the menu so spectacular. Most notably are two dishes in which Aguilar transforms the main ingredient. Fresh oysters from Watch Hill, Road Island are taken to a new level as they’re Panko crusted and fried. And being one to eat salmon for its health benefits not flavor, I was given a new appreciation for the fish after trying it pan-seared. Although wild, the salmon was delightfully mild and delicious with its crunchy crust. Served over a bed of Basmati rice with julienned carrots and zucchini, and a delicious sauce, I almost didn’t want to share.

Enhancing our dining experience was wine consultant John Slover’s (Blue Hill) ability to match our tastes with a European selection, poured into a cute craft decanter. The extensive selection of rare and well-priced bottles can be overwhelming so uniquely half bottles are available and for just half the price of the bottle! Balanced handcrafted cocktails don the menu as well, like the tropically refreshing Jay Lung made from Cruzan rum, mint and lime ($14). Each went well with our rethought classic dishes; organic roasted chicken served with buttery mashed potatoes and heirloom carrots ($19), and a tasty taco made from short ribs and corn ($12).

Whether you visit for an after-work drink or a multi-course meal, Bar Henry whisks you away to a time and place that once was, but can still be enjoyed today!

En route home I popped into my neighborhood standby, the General Greene (229 DeKalb Ave. 718-222-1510) to visit its recent addition, a gourmet grocery store. Hoping to pick up ingredients to pair with a salmon dinner I bought a jar of Virginia sun-ripened dried tomatoes soaking in oil and herbs and some old fashioned mustard would enhance my salad. I didn’t leave without getting some freshly baked bread and a container of the restaurant’s tasty red quinoa seasoned with lime, walnuts and mint.