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The Home of Glazed Berkshire Pork Chop
Faustina at the Cooper Square Hotel
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Chef Scott Conant is mostly recognized for his imaginative take on Italian cuisine, especially at his Meatpacking District-based restaurant, Scarpetta, which has received great reactions from critics and patrons alike. In February, the Culinary Institute of America alumni opened Faustina. Located in the chic and modern Cooper Square Hotel, Conant’s new establishment puts a twist on traditional Italian preparation.
During my recent visit at Faustina, my friendly host, Tom, explained that Conant’s vision for this restaurant is to “serve Italian cuisine how other cultures interpret it.” One very noticeable fact was how Conant really wants to share his love for Italian food. Looking at the menu alone gives a patron that certainty. What I loved about it was that there were a good amount of options from the bread and olives to dessert. One other thing that I truly enjoyed was how the restaurant’s design and feel counteracts its dishes. The space design and décor is very chic and modern while the dishes remained rather traditional (they serve seven-course meals).
Bread and Olives
Olives dell ‘Acoslona, fried pork and veal-stuffed olives
The concept of this is great. It’s pretty much a meat-stuffed olive, inside in a meatball. It has a crunchy exterior, which I love. It’s savory and definitely satisfies the “meat tooth.” The only thing I didn’t find very enticing about it was that it gets saltier as I ate more of it. One plate of it is just the right amount.
Grilled Ciabatta with poached duck egg and Fontana truffle fonduta
The bread is served semi-soft, while the fondue is served with the duck egg sunny side up, but it’s meant to be cut into and blended with the cream. Out of the items I tried from the Bread and Olives menu, this was my favorite. It felt like I was having dessert because of the creamy fondue.
Salume and Cheese
Prosciutto San Daniele
Probably one of the best prosciuttos I’ve ever had. Prosciuttos tend to be on the salty side, but this one had only a subtle hint of saltiness. It was tender, silky and smooth. The cheeses that were chosen were Robiola dulatte (sheep and cow) and the softer La Tur (sheep, cow and goat).
Vegetables
There are seven dishes in this menu, all served cold. Tom explained that it’s traditional to serve antipasti cold, and this is their twist on it. While the vision for this is interesting, the dishes would be twice as amazing if it were served warm. I was served six plates but the following are the dishes that I feel really stood out:
Cippollini onion “Agro-Dolce” with golden raisins and organic goat cheese
This is my favorite one. The onions were so soft that I cut right through them with my fork, while the raisins enhanced their sweetness. Together with the cheese, it is divine.
Slow-roasted heirloom carrots with toasted almonds
Again, I like that it is soft. This one has a distinct taste to it, reminding me of curry. The spices and carrots were a good pair.
Grilled zucchini with pecorino and anchovy
Of course I had to get the zucchini, being that I was at an Italian restaurant. I do find this a bit salty but the parmesan cheese sprinkled on top helped balance it out.
Appetizers
Lardo-wrapped Prawns with rosemary-braised lentils
I enjoyed this dish a lot. The prawn with lentils is flavorful and savory. It was the perfect pairing of sweet (lentils) and salty (prawns). I liked that the prawns were meaty as well.
Pasta
Cavatelli with Maine lobster, tomato and basil bread crumbs
I love that it was flavorful. It tastes fresh and clean, yet comforting and hearty. The pasta was cooked perfectly; it wasn’t hard, but it didn’t fall apart when my fork cut into it. If you are to get one item on the menu, I highly recommend this one.
Strozzapreti, suckling pig ragu
I was looking forward to this all evening but I was a little disappointed. When I learned of it, it sounded like it was going to be life changing; it’s cooked in the pig’s fat. Of course, I had to taste it. I found that it lacked that crunch that I was looking forward to. The pasta was a bit undercooked.
Main
Glazed Berkshire Pork Chop
I loved everything about this. It was savory, juicy and tender. It definitely was a great example of sweet and salty pairing. They serve a generous portion (it’s meant for two people). The crunch that I anticipated with the Strozzapreti I found with this.
Desserts
Gianduila, banana tart with caramelized bananas, rum-banana sorbetto
Need I say more? I feel a bit terrible for having this last. I wish I had started off with this and the pork chop so I could have truly savored every taste of it.