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Have Tony and Marisa Joined the Hip Side?
Restaurant review: SD26
SD26
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Yes, it’s true that father-daughter restaurateurs Tony and Marisa May’s sequel to San Domenico is the “equivalent of a second wife…dressed in a way that might raise eyebrows.” Yes, the ceiling is more than 20 feet high and the layout doesn’t have the rustic feel that San Domenico had. Yes, we sigh when reminiscing of the old location. Yes, it’s louder and most of its patrons have never been to San Domenico by Central Park. Yes, they feature an Enomatic wine machine where you need a “smartcard” to purchase bottles. Yes, they have joined the hipster bandwagon, complete with an iPad wine list. What’s the big deal? Every review seem to point out the aesthetics but no one seems to be really discussing the food.
I understand the reason why regulars of San Domenico are disappointed with Tony and Marisa’s new spot, SD26. They’re disappointed the same way that old-school Facebook members are bummed that it’s no longer exclusive to college students. One critic wrote that SD26 has identity issues. Well, here’s a thought: Tony and Marisa May clearly stated before SD26 opened that they wanted “cutting edge,” and that they wanted to stay current. That’s exactly what they’ve done with SD26. I think the problem is that people are mistaking SD26 for San Domenico. There shouldn’t even be a comparison. They’re two separate entities.
Now, let’s get down to business.
The food is served according to its star ingredients. Their menu features eight categories: Salumeria, Super Starters, Pasta, Grains and Legumes, Meat, Poultry and Game, Formageria, Vegetables and Salad, Fish and Shellfish and Dessert, each of which includes a number of options. The food here is not as groundbreaking as the décor, but it’s not something to shrug off either. Out of the menu items, the following are what I found most worthy of your time, money and taste buds:
Salumeria
The better choice here is the Culatello, which is a center cut of prosciutto that’s been aged 18 months. It’s soft and flavorful, but doesn’t have the saltiness a prosciutto typically has. It isn’t served with cheese but it’s wise to pair the two.
Super Starters
Zeppela di baccala made me a believer. The burst of flavors is pleasant, and the crispy apples and scallions counteract the saltiness of the fish.
Meat, Poultry and Game
I highly recommend the Pan-seared Venison Saddle. It will give you the comfort that you want from a meat. It’s served with braised cabbage, hazelnuts, red beets and Granny Smith apples.